How to install outdoor pergola Kits roof

Part 2 of the DIY roofing install guide.

OK. Bored yet! Using standard framing nails (50mm long shank), we nail the plywood every 150mm along the edges.

TIP “High wind zone nailing is every 150mm. This is “storm nailing” and conforms to plywood manufacturers guides”.

Plywood is staggered between layers increasing the strength. No gap is required in the tongue and groove joint.

TIP “ 2mm gap on the short side of the ply, allowing for expansion in humid conditions. The tongue and groove sides have no gap.”

Keeping a tidy workspace is a good safety measure.

Work Safe considers anything over two metres high as “Working at heights”.  Special consideration for safety should be taken. This aluminium scaffold is lightweight and easy to move.

TIP “Lightweight aluminium scaffold is a great idea if you have a large fall.”

These gaps in the plywood are easily fixed with the asphalt roof shingles.

The metal drip edge extends up the roof around 100mm, bends down and kicks out. Monument Colour is a good match for the dual black shingles. The drip edge protects the plywood from water. It is not required on a gazebo and is mainly used where there are gutters in place.

Tap a nail in on either end of the ply 100mm up from the bottom edge and snap a chalk line. This chalk line positions the drip edge correctly. When joining the drip edge, we have a 100mm overlap.

TIP “Don’t nail through two layers of metal as it will creak and pop as the metal expands in the heat.”

We use Stormtite synthetic roof underlay to cover the plywood.  We supply enough synthetic roof underlay to cover the roof with extra for waste and overlaps.  The synthetic roof underlay gives the system a Class-A fire rating – providing “severe exposure to fire”.  The underlay also serves to protect the plywood from several toxins that can be released from the ply.  Synthetic underlay reduces the visible outlines seen when the plywood is not installed flat.

The Stormtite synthetic roof underlay is laid horizontally across the roof.  The bottom of the synthetic underlay is placed in line with the bottom of the plywood. When joining the synthetic underlay on the vertical joints, we use a 100mm overlap, 50mm on the horizontal. We generally use staples to hold the synthetic underlay in place.  You will need a helper to hold the underlay down when it is windy.

TIP “The synthetic roof underlay is stapled to the roof to stop the wind from blowing it off. ”

Starting in the corner, we roll out the synthetic roof underlay of the outdoor gazebo.  Bring the synthetic roof to underlay inline with the plywood or drip edge – whichever you have.

We now cut the bottom half tabs off the three-tab shingles to create a “starter course”.  We place a pack of asphalt roof shingles upside down, use something straight as a guide and cut the tabs off.  This creates a 1000mm wide starter strip which is the first course of asphalt shingles. This starter course is covered up as the first full shingle is installed over the top. On a shingle roof, we always have two layers of shingles.

TIP “You can keep the off-cuts as these can be used to fill into the hip or along the half row at the ridge.”

BIG TIP The thin tape on the underside of the shingle is ONLY used to stop the shingles from sticking together in transport and storage. Don’t remove this.”

We give the starter course a 10mm overhang over the edge of the plywood to create a “drip-edge” keeping the water away from the plywood.

Click here to go to DIY pergola/gazebo guide part 3